July 17

Letters Removed From the Top of the Wells Fargo Building.  Locomotive Still Beneath the Pilings

The tallest building in Jacksonville in 1974 was was known then as The Independent Life building at 535 feet.  It was confirmed again in 2024 by James Abrams an expert in attaching and removing huge business lettering when he talked about the now 2nd tallest building in Jacksonville.    Abrams was a part of the 2011 team that helped remove lettering from now-called 1 Independent Drive when the building changed owners. This is the 5th time the building will have letters removed atop this structure. 

The Dingman Family, 2017 Eclipse with iconic Jacksonville Landing Sign and Wells Fargo Building in the background.

Over the years, the names have been: The Independent Life, Accustaff, Modis, Wells Fargo and until the new owner, Argentic Investment Management LLC of New York City renames it, the structure will be known as 1 Independent Drive. (Daily Record, Wells Fargo Center tower and garages Downtown sold for $46.35 million, Karen Brune Mathis, April 24, 2024).

There is a lot of history with the structure over the years including when the grounds were being prepared for building back in 1971.  On a discovery walk with Gary Sass of Adlib Tours, we walked to the corner of Laura and Bay Street to learn that beneath this huge building lay still, a bonified locomotive which the contractors and owners of the day decided to leave.  Instead, they built pilings around the locomotive leaving the metal train.  A thirty-six-story building sits on top of a full-size locomotive in Jacksonville, Florida.  

Gary Sass with Adlib Tours (Photo: Visit Jacksonville).

According to an article by Ennis Davis, the large locomotive could easily be explained as the area was once near a train line confirmed by maps. The train connection was used to distribute goods and services to the city of Jacksonville.(A Locomotive is Buried Below This Skyscraper, The Jason, Ennis Davis, January 8, 2017). 

1504 Locomotive dates back to 1919 sat in parking lot of Prime Osborn for decades is a sample of an old locomotive. (Photo: Ramey).

Too in this city, there could be, buried in the bottom of a Jacksonville home owner’s junk drawer and on someone’s 1971 Kodak Instamatic X-15 camera film roll, a photo of a buried steam engine which lay deep beneath the 5th named Independent Life Building located at the 1 Independent Drive in Jacksonville, Florida.   It has yet to be revealed but maybe one day. 

When the Well’s Fargo lettering was placed on the building at the time it was re-named Wells Fargo,  James Abrams, sign technician, was one of those wearing a repelling harness to work with the bolts and attachments, in preparation for the changes back then. He said Dave Clark was a part of this team repelling on the side of the  535 foot high building on this occasion.  The owner of High Angel Services Jim Webster reported to Chanel 4 news that precision was important for the safety of all involved. The weather was clear, the wind mild and the crew professional.

Wells Fargo letters after being removed from the building 2024 (Ramey archives)

Abrams has been involved once again as I met him at the landing area located across from the Maxwell house Coffee plant where letters from the building were flown.  Two others heavily involved in the process of letter removal were Alexis Casul, and Kyle Roberson, all who work for Southeastern Lighting Solutions.  They were tasked with receiving each 1,500 pound letter by the vintage 1953 Sikorsky S-58 helicopter. ( Florida Times Union, Wells Fargo sinage comes down with help of 1958 vintage helicopter, Bob Self, July 14, 2024). 

Kyle Roberson, Alexis Casul, James Abrams of Southeastern Lighting Solutions (Photo: Ramey)

Kyle Roberson, Alexis Casul, James Abrams of Southeastern Lighting Solutions (Photo: Ramey)

There, the twenty, approximately 17 foot, tall, 1500 pound letters were brought after being removed from the once-named Wells Fargo Building on July 14th, 2024.  The huge letters were then prepared one at a time with a steel cables for each letter and hoisted far above the building.  The letters were then  flown by helicopter to the open area to be received by hand, one at a time.   As the helicopter hovered  over the men, the letters were hanging and with careful precision, each one was held by the helicopter cable, handled by the men, lowered to the ground and unattached by the waiting crew.

By Tuesday of that week, the men had detached the bright orange letter covers, removed all lights inside of the metal lettering and had them stacked on a flat bed truck ready to be recycled.

For now, the steam engine, confirmed by eye-witnesses back-in-the-day,  lay undisturbed since 1971 when the iconic building was built and named for an accident insurance company.  The naming rights of the building belonged to the then owner, Independent Life.

For now though, all we know for sure is that on Sunday, July 14, 2024 eye witnesses saw a helicopter hang at least twenty, 1500 pound letters swagging in the air removing them to make way for the next Independent Life Building owner, Argentic Investment Management LLC of New York City to have new lettering place atop the approximately 650,000  leasable square foot building.  ( Daily RecordHelicopter removes Wells Fargo signage from Downtown Jacksonville tower.

Oh, but if locomotives could talk.

Category: Buildings, Business | Comments Off on Letters Removed From the Top of the Wells Fargo Building.  Locomotive Still Beneath the Pilings
July 13

Photographing 700 E. Union St. 100 Year Old Bldg.

When you’re flying across the Matthews bridge and come to the bottom at the first intersection, you look right and see a huge red water tank atop a massive, long cement monster of a building, you’ve arrived.   That is the old 700 East Union Street storage and commercial building. For years, according to Chris Sandstrom, seamstress and artist in her own right noted there were spaces there for creative efforts over the years.  She said, “We had quite the community of business people there”. Who knew that for years and years the area was used for businesses, artists and more to sell and work on their crafts!

Photographers standing in front of the proposed new look for 700 Union St.

 In 2018, it was bought by Columbia  Ventures LLC and five years later photographers were invited to take a couple of hours to photograph the old building til’ their hearts content in order to preserve some of its history.

According to records, the 7.99-acre site was bought for $4.5 million and is being renovated into apartments, housing units and a restaurant. On the day we arrived the place had been completely gutted and inside walls were going up.  Also, the earth-movers were clearing out the grounds for parking space and yard renovations.  There was a lot going on. As Sandstorm said, “Soooo much history in that building”.  

The day went off without a hitch.  Photographers, and even wanna-be photographers like me went to the main office, signed waivers, promised photos of some sort and spent a hard-hat-day walking the span of this age-old building for a couple of hours. Before walking on the site, all visitors saw a safety video, had specific instructions by employees about the do’s and don’ts and each person was given a safety hat. 

The photo-tour was guided by three employees, Ryan, Ormondo, and Tore, spending about 20 minutes spent on each floor with the bonus of walking beneath the old water tower on top. On every floor, a reminder of safety instructions were given to ensure well-being.

Photographers then were let loose to walk anywhere there was not caution tape.  The thoughts were that through the eyes and lens of many photographers, they may capture some of the history in order to preserve it in a long-lasting way.  Photos will possibly be used for wall space, in foyers, apartments, offices and more.

Certainly, historians should be thrilled that not only is the building being repurposed but even history such as the photograph of old bottles, wall cracks, metal doors, old light switches, locks,  and even old rivets have been documented. 

The next time you’re flying across the Matthews Street Bridge, look right and you’ll see preservation at its finest. Oh, and ‘A shout-out to Columbia Ventures for having such a vision so as to preserve a building built in 1913 and even with vision to preserve the nuts, bolts, bottles and more!

See you tomorrow,

Nan 

Sources:  Jacksonville Daily Record, Duval County Tax Records, Wikipedia, Personal Visit.

Category: Buildings, Business, History | Comments Off on Photographing 700 E. Union St. 100 Year Old Bldg.
June 29

The Jacksonville Ford Plant Demolished

After 98 years, it has finally come down to the fact that Jacksonville will no longer have need of the auto plant built in Jacksonville by the famous Henry Ford.  According to the Jaxdailyreocord, ELEV8 Demolition has taken down the old facility and the metal, steel and debris is all broken a part and mangled.  It was a long time coming but the Jacksonville City Council, Preservation Committee, Historical Society and more did all they could do to try to preserve this work of history but in the end, it will become a shipyard. According to Matt, a worker at a nearby site.

Today, I took a trip over to 1900 Wambolt to find just that- a totally dismantled and destroyed Ford factory with only the mangled steel beams distributed all over the 14.64 acre spot with old rivets showing.  Talking to one of the workers at Hall Construction Co., the old plant was basically put together by a machine that would  join the steel together tightly.  Almost 100 years ago that was amazing.  Generally speaking, a hole would have to be  drilled in the steel, a rivet placed in the hole and using a strong tool, a rivet connected holding two or more pieces of steel together.

We will keep you posted in the up-and-coming events related to this property.

See you tomorrow,

Nan 

April 27

Jacksonville’s Buckingham Palace

According to the Royal. Uk website, Buckingham Palace has “served as the official London residence of the UK’s sovereigns since 1837”.  It was built in our around 1703 but has served the Royals for many years as the “Queen’s House” where she and dignitaries from all over the world meet.  I guess this year, it may become the “King’s House” as King Charles III will be crowned.

Buckingham Palace, Royal Photo

In the late 1800’s in the Jacksonville, Florida area, Osceola, the Seminole Indian leader was captured near St. Augustine and taken to the Fort. Also happening in and around 1837 was the formation of the First Baptist Church of Jacksonville, also known as Bethel.

Just above Jacksonville, on Amelia at that time the lighthouse, Florida’s oldest began guiding ships along the shoreline.  State Supreme Court Justice Jamie Grosshans spoke at the River Club in 2021 and explained that those forming our state were putting together the Florida Constitution was written and adopted by 1838.  

There are no buildings in and around Jacksonville that compare to the massive Buckingham Palace with its 775 rooms and yet we have our own great administrative building such as the St. James.  It began as the St. James hotel in 1869 and was burned in the Great Fire of Jacksonville in 1901.  It was rebuilt after the fire and reopened in 1912.  It was one of the largest buildings at that time. According to Wikipedia, the St. James hotel could lodge some 500 guests and had a laundry area, barbershop, telegraph desk and place for concerts.

St James Hotel turned Jacksonville City Hall(Photo- Fl Memory)

The 117 West Duval Street place was purchased by the City of Jacksonville, Florida in 1993, remodelled it and reopened in1997.  Today it serves as the Jacksonville City Hall. 

There are no coronations there and yet this month in our city, we will elect a Mayor whose office will use our St. James Building.  This month in London there will be a coronation of the King of England where he will continue to use Buckingham Palace as a residence and place to bring together leaders of the world.

I’ll take some pics while I’m there during this event and share them when I return.

See you tomorrow,

Nan

Sources:  Jaxdailyrecord . Com, Wikipedia, Personal visit to the both sites.

March 26

Lake Forest Elementary School Elementary School #74

Shuttered-School of Visual Arts-K-5

901 Kennard Street

Lake Forest Elementary School was built in 1949 and served the neighborhood until its closing in 2021.  Students from the closed school were transferred to North Shore Elementary School. The abandoned school still has beautiful artwork on its exterior.  

Mona Lisa @ lake Forest Elem (Ramey Collection)

When visiting, the school the arts are clearly defined with the Mona Lisa prominently painted on the front of the school, a Van Gogh Starry, Starry night portrayal and all around the building pieces of yard-art including an angel can be seen.  The angels that once trekked in, out and around the building have been transferred to North Shore Elementary School. Lake Forest is on the demotion list to become affordable housing.  The artist of the paintings is unknown. (Such a shame).

Lake Forest Artwork on the Bldg. (Ramey Collection)

The PTA website for Lake Forest Elementary School was “dreams begin here” but according to the latest information, the school will be demolished and affordable housing will take its place.  The dreams of those approximately 325 children are at North Shore Elementary School, where they have been transferred. 

Lake Forest has had many principals over the years such as Cassandra Thomas and others. Some teachers serving there have been S. Amoy, L. Elam, L. Miller, A. Wood and more. Margaret Sweat attended there and said she “got a great education”. Another student commenting on Facebook was Jason Boddie. 

Lake Forest Elementary School (Ramey Collection).

We are looking for information about this school. If you would like to be included, please message me.

See you tomorrow,

Nan

Sources: Public School Review, List of Schools and Year Built, Facebook, Duval Public School news information.

If you believe you are a copyright owner or can help with information regarding this article, including to clarify rights or information issues, please contact me. We are willing to remove any item from public view if there is any concern regarding ownership. In addition, if you have facts to help, please contact me.

March 20

The Murray Hill School # 19 and Ruth N. Upson

The Murray Hill neighborhood began its roots in 1906 as an outgrowth of the 1901 Great Jacksonville Fire.   After the fire, the city began rebuilding and Murray Hill was one of those areas near to the downtown that was platted to welcome new homes, businesses and people. When the area had some growth about it, a new school was built in 1916 at 1090 Dancy Street.  It would be called the Murray Hill School. Ruth Upson taught school in Duval County and became principal at this school. This westside neighborhood was about to boom and Ruth N. Upson was a part of that growth.  

First Named Murray Hill School(Ramey Collection)

This school has served the Murray Hill area for over 100 years. The school opened in 1916 and in December of 2016 had a 100 year party to celebrate. People came from all around to be a a part of this event including former attendees. There were scrapbooks, newspaper articles and more shared on this exciting day. Resident News posted photographs of the event on their site which included many of the artefacts brought and former students.

Former students of Ruth N. Upson School. Class photos.

There were items that had the Murray Hill School name on it dating back to its founding. After Ms. Upson served as principal, a petition was sent around to rename the school in her honor.  Ruth Newell Upson retired in 1949 after 32 years as the principal.  

Ruth Newell Upson (Duval Public Schools)

Ms. Upson was born in Syracuse, New York on June 10, 1879.  According to Evergreenjax, she moved to Jacksonville, Florida in 1885, attended St. Johns Church school and graduated from the University of Florida in 1903.    She died on April 15 at the age of 88.  On the school website, it says, she passed away” in 1968 but will forever be remembered as a heroine of our school.”

Ruth Newell Upson is buried in Evergreen Cemetery.

See you tomorrow,

Nan

Sources: Duval County Schools, Wikipedia, Evergreenjax, Facebook, personal visit.

March 18

The Karpeles Manuscript Library in Jacksonville

It has closed.  After 30 years in Jacksonville, the Karpeles Manuscript Library Museum clicked the lock and will no longer service the Jacksonville area.  Karpeles manuscript library was begun by David Karpeles’.  He had a love for old documents and began a collection which ended up being placed in about a dozen libraries in the United States. 

Karpeles closing week. Grandson and I visited to find a metal detector scanning premises.

Jacksonville’s library was housed in the old 1921 building built by Marsh and Saxelbye once was used for First Church of Christ in Springfield. David Karpeles died in January of 2022. The Jacksonville location closed in January of 2023 as will others around the country while Karpeles’ daughter, Cheryl Alleman, and her brother, Mark Karpeles downsize and reorganize. It has been reported they will go from 15 manuscript libraries to 10 over time.

Manuscripts laying on the stage the week of closing.

For thirty years, Jacksonvillians and guests could visit and find rare and authentic documents such as the first printing of the Ten Commandments from the Gutenberg Bible (c 1455), the famous E=MC2 formula by Einstein, the original manuscript of Roget’s Thesaurus, the sheet music of the Wedding March, Abraham Lincoln’s signature of 1861, the Apollo Translunar trajectory plotting America’s space flight and more. Through the years manuscripts were transferred from one library to another rotating the authentic pieces so many could view them in glass cases.

East Coast founding c 1500’s
10 Commandments first printed by Gutenburg Press
Taxation without Representation document

The library opened in Jacksonville in 1992 and closed its doors here in January of 2023.  I am told there is a small library nearby that can be visited.  It is being touted as “the smallest walk-in-museum in the United States” and is located in the Nation’s oldest city, St. Augustine.

Mini Museum in St. Augustine, Florida-Opened 2023

You should check it out. I’m going to….

See you tomorrow,

Nan

Location:

St Augustine location for Karpeles Mini Museum-

St George’s Row- Unit L

106 St. George St.

St Augustine, Fl 32084

9:am-10:00 pm daily

FREE

Old location of the Jacksonville Karpeles-101 West 1st Street ( formerly 1116 North Laura Street)

March 17

The Underground Money-Keepers of Jacksonville

The most secure depository in the world is said to be that of Fort Knox.  It is operated by the United States Department of Treasury.  It seems to me and I’m no security expert, that the original three banks of downtown Jacksonville could have given Fort Knox a “run for the money” in terms of security back-in-the-day.

Diebold vault workers (Sass Collection-Diebold via Jacksonville Blogger)

There are, at this moment still, in 2023, huge vaults under banks in downtown Jacksonville.  If you take the Gary Sass tour you can see at least two and actually walk inside of one of them.  Don’t close the door because if they can’t open some of the safes that have been there since 1877, they may not have the combination or key to the huge circular tumblers that open the vault.  On the tour you can walk under the city streets , in tunnels prepared for vault use in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s by Jacksonville bankers.

Early Banks in Jacksonville (Florida Memory via Jacksonville Blogger)

It has been suggested that the vaults were so big, they were put in the ground first and the banks built on top of them. For years they were used to store three of the biggest banks in Florida’s money.  When the downtown Jacksonville boom burst, the vaults were left unoccupied and unused.

The Barnett Bank of Jacksonville opened on the corner of Forsyth and Main in 1877.   It would become the largest commercial bank in Florida with an excess of 600 offices and over $40 billion in deposits.  The buildings with vaults beneath them still stand.  

The Atlantic National Bank began in 1903.  Banking efforts have changed hands over the years and today it is called Wells Fargo.  

The Florida National Bank opened in 1905 which would become the 2nd largest bank in Florida at some point. All of those banks used the vaults for transferring money.

Through the years there have been many changes. There was the Great Fire of Jacksonville, Indian ‘wars, the Civil War, but one thing that has not changed is the huge vaults that once provided safe storage for the millions and millions and million of dollars, certificates and actual gold stashed in them for safety.  Of course, there is no money there(that we know of) but the vaults are safe.

The tour begins by going underground and walking through several tunnels.  The tunnels, for the most part look like office walls and walkways until you realize you’re under Forsyth Street, and then Julia Street and you look to see how the path goes down.

When you get to the end, you walk through a door to see a huge Diebold vault. This company was known for it’s security of money, valuables, records and more late in the 1880’s.   It’s truly an “ah ha” moment when you see the huge gold-bronze looking safe.  It makes you want see more, turn its tumblers and close the door.   In the vault area, are old lock boxes that individuals would rent, some that are still closed and no one knows the combinations or have keys to the century old relics. If confederate money is in there, there is no value anyhow. Right?

Underground safes-Deposit boxes (Ramey Collection).

You’re encouraged to take the tour.  It’s worth the go-

See you tomorrow,

Nan

To schedule a tour: AdLib Luxury Tours

(904)827-1845

gary@adlibtours.com

February 25

I can neither confirm or deny the existence of the places discussed and photographed in the article

Top Secrets for Jacksonville’s Military

From watch towers and double gates to electric fences, and serious surveillance, the Yellow Water Weapons Storage area was real. From 1952 until the closing of the weapons area of the Yellow Water compound in October of 1993, this was a seriously hush-hush place out Normandy boulevard in Duval County, Florida.  

The area was so top secret that when weapons were moved along roads, those in cars would be asked to stop, get out of their autos and look the other way, wrote a blogger on a chat link. Yellow Water Storage facilities were decommissioned officially in 1993. Before that time, it was so top-secret that special clearance was necessary to travel on North side of Cecil Field base but no one would confirm or deny as to why.

Yellow Water Bunker with grass and trees covering and 3 foot walls. The doors were stolen.

As of today, the Sheriff’s Department has “No Trespassing” signs along the old entry points. There is a walking and biking trail that can be taken, which along the way, some of the old cement storage buildings can be seen but they have little or no signage to indicate their purposes although the word “warning” appears from time to time. While many barricades are broken in areas, the old fencing is a reminder that visitors not allowed back there-even as late as 2023.

This area is monitored by the Jacksonville Sheriff’s Dept.

According to many who have worked onsite, there were nuclear weapons for aircraft carriers, F-18 bombers and P-3 Orion submarine hunters. The military has never confirmed or denied that this is true though. The closest this has been confirmed is by the updates of the repurposing of the area going forward. The epa.gov site says, “The official mission of NAS Cecil Field was to provide services for the operation and maintenance of naval weapons, aircrafts and other units of the operating forces.”  

Anyone can go on the walking/riding trail out Normandy Blvd and see this storage area.

Back-in-the-day, Cecil Field was the largest land area for military acreage anywhere near Florida.  Within miles, three military bases were ready to have use of the weapons should they be needed: Mayport, Naval Air Station Jacksonville and Cecil Field; all in and around Jacksonville, Florida area.

Per the Base Realignment and Closure Commission, Naval Air Station Cecil Field has been closed now since September 30 1999.  The Naval Air Station has been repurposed and called Cecil Field Commerce but the weapons area across the street has been left abandoned although there has been some activity indicating of late as reports that new things are coming.

Twenty-four-seven motion detectors, double door metal enclosures and grass and trees growing atop igloo-shaped cement bunkers once disguised the whereabouts even now covered building from drones, planes or even balloon surveillance.  

The inside of one of the many bunkers at the former Yellow Water Nuclear Storage Area

In years past, the compound had available, a firing range which is now under water and overgrown by trees, small bridges connecting one side of small tributaries to others, a huge swimming pool, larger than an Olympic sized pool and exercise equipment for those in the military to stay in shape. It also had its own fencing, water treatment plants, cisterns and large water tanks for fresh water.

Bridge over a small water way.

Oversized swimming pool at the former Yellow Water Weapons Storage area.

The compound began in 1952 and had an official end day of October 1, 1993.  It was abandoned by 1999 while Cecil Commerce Center began a new life of its own with businesses including air craft and continual use of flight towers. Military installations are still present on base as they continue to use some of the buildings such as Army Aviation Support Facility #1, and the Florida Army National Guard.

Alec P. Vaughan, Jr. who worked as a Civil Service Administrator in the 1970’s had occasion to go across to the weapons area with special clearance for that occasion only. He talked about riding a train while on the North side of Normandy Blvd.  Those who know the property,  say the tracks have been pulled up but indicate there once was a train system there at a back entrance way.

Former entrance to the Cecil Field Naval Air Base

Over the years, urban explorers have gone into the facilities, trashing them, spray painting walls and floors and leaving messages indicating they have been there. Bats, rodents, and wild life of almost every kind have taken over the once heavily guarded secret compound dedicated to keeping the Nation safe and ready to defend should there be a need during the Cold War.

Online, there are a variety of “Abandoned” videos and stories about the now defunct storage areas. Before seeing any of these current discoveries, Jacksonvillians did not even know the Yellow Water Weapons Area was across the street from the Cecil Field Naval Air Base all of these years.

Yes, I thought these were nuclear buttons. NO! Water tank operation system.

I purchased a set of “Leatherneck” magazines which in the 1983 edition mentions the Yellow Water surveillance, ammunition, bunkers and more so “Leatherneck” outed this unit back in the mid 1980’s.

Just like the Navy, I did not confirm or deny what the authors of this magazine wrote in that piece. I cannot confirm or deny what is written here even if I may have seen it with my own eyes.

See you tomorrow,

Nan

Sources: Appreciation to all who assisted in this research and information, Leatherneck Magazine, Navy.mil, Googe, Call Box( Florida Times Union), AbandonedFl, epa.gov, personal experience.

 I can neither confirm or deny the existence of the places discussed in the article.

February 20

The Moulton & Kyle Funeral Home Entry

It is unclear when this tile flooring was put down at the address of 17 W. Union in Jacksonville, Florida.   It could have been when the building was built in 1914.  The ground tile remains even today in 2023 after the 2021 demolition of the downtown property once, a two-story, approximately 9,000 square foot funeral parlor.

Entrance to old funeral home demolished 2021- Ramey Collection

Robert  Peeples, Jr. owned the building and property which he bought in 1992. His current funeral home is located out North Main Street. Moulton- Kyle caught fire in January of 2021 and was removed shortly after. Hauled away also was a black 1967 hearse.

The building had been one of Jacksonville’s oldest which was once the funeral home business of Calvin Oak.  It was later owned in 1909 by Harry S. Moulton and Samuel A. Kyle funeral home establishment . 

Built in 1914- S. A. Kyle- Moulton & Kyle- Photo- Florida Memory

H. S. Moulton died on October 21, 1939.  S. A. Kyle in 1969.

William F. Miller & Co did the tile work.

All that’s left of the once brick building is a line of brick bounding part of the old structure and the front entrance decorated tile floor. I wonder if the new builder will preserve it?

See you tomorrow,

Nan